Will Bosi made the second ascent of Burden of Dreams, world’s first 9A boulder. We proudly present the interview with Will that we have made just before he has sent the boulder.
Photo: Diego Borello
When did you decide to climb Burden of Dreams for the first time? How did you realize that you are ready for it?
So I decided only in February when I had my second session on the replica. Before then I had just assumed it would be too hard for me.
You have sent 8C+ boulder already. Does Burden of Dreams really feel harder? Do you think it is really 9A boulder?
Burden of Dreams definitely feels like the hardest boulder I have tried. Of course it’s hard to say without sending it but I do feel like it’s a step up from everything thing I have done to date and does deserve 9A.
Did you talk with Nalle about that boulder? Do you like his film about Lappnor Project? Do you agree with the idea that if you want to climb such a hard boulder you need a lot of things on your side? I mean, strong fingers is not everything you need, you need some luck, some confluence of circumstances.
No, unfortunately I have not spoken with Nalle but I have watched his film a few times though! I do agree that for limit boulders you need many factors to come together but especially for Burden. This boulder is so easy to mess up and skin and conditions matter a lot, so getting that one try where everything works will be super hard and luck may well come into it!
Photo: Diego Borello
Please share your impressions of Burden of Dreams? How does it feel to climb it? What can you say about the holds, the beta? I think the boulder is amazing! It is the perfect pure line. It is just five hard moves on a steep clean face. Also it’s not just really powerful but also technical which is why I think it is so hard. The holds and beta are really interesting and I don’t think I’ve done many moves like these before. It is April, but in Finland it is still winter :) Is the weather good for sending the boulder? Yes, the weather in Finland is perfect right now, it’s just above 0 degrees and clear skies. I am keeping my fingers crossed it stays like this for a while. How did you spend your rest days between sessions? I’ve spent a lot of my rest days at the boulder supporting the other guys who are trying it. Other than that I’ve been exploring the country a little. 7 You made a replica of the boulder in a gym, right? Did it help you to prepare for Burden of Dreams? What was your special training before you went to Finland? Yes, Aidan Roberts made a replica after his trip here and I trained ten days on it before coming out. It’s made a huge difference and I count the 10 days as days on the climb as it was so similar. Without the replica, I do not think I would have come and I definitely would not be doing very well! Please share you plans for 2023. My main goal was Excalibur 9b+ in. Then I am hoping to go to America later in the year and hopefully try Excalibur in the winter. The beard suits you very well. Please say a few word about that part your image. Ah thank you very much! I had never tried to grow one before and just wanted to see how it looks. I really like it so I will keep it for now!
Text by Yury Birilov, SKALOLAZ.PRO. (c) All rights reserved.
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Photo: Pietari Purovaara
On 12th April, Will Bosi claimed the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A in Lappnor
Finland. The boulder problem was established by Nalle Hukkataival and was the first
boulder problem to be proposed at the grade of 9A following three years of work by the
Finn. Burden of Dreams is characterised by a pure style moving through tiny crimps and
crystals on a 45 degree angled boulder and has repelled some of the very best climbers
in the world who have attempted it until Bosi’s ascent.
Commenting on the second ascent, Bosi said “It feels unbelievable right now! I came to
the boulder today thinking it would be too hot to climb but the warm up felt incredible and
on the send I flew through the bottom section and after dropping the top hold previously,
this time it all came together!”
On the grade of the problem: “From the overall experience on this boulder from working
the replica to finally sending it, I think it’s a step up from everything else I have done and
it is a huge step up from any 8C/+ I’ve done. Therefore I think it definitely deserves 9A!”
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