Enjoy an exclusive interview with one of the best climbers in the world Laura Rogora by SKALOLAZ.PRO team.
Photo by Andrea Donato
Laura, congratulations on winning WC in Briancon! What was in your mind when you started to climb the route and you know that Janja topped it?
From the observation I thought the route was possible and I knew Janja topped it but I hadn’t so much pressure, I only wanted to climb well and give my best like I was climbing on rock A 9a in a day right after you won WC – that was tough! Please tell us about that route La Prophétie des grenouille. Do you agree with it’s grade?
The route is quite long and bumpy. It starts with a crimpy boulder of an 8c and then goes on the right till a rest with a kneebar just before the hardest boulder of the route, a hard shoulder move in an overhanging dihedral. On my third try I passed this move but the route is not finished yet. After the boulder you still have to climb the hardest part of an 8b which I checked quickly on the previous try so I really risked to fall there and I had to fight hard till the end. Concerning the grade I think that for sure it is not the hardest 9a I have climbed but it fits quite well my style so I think it could be anyway on the 8c+/9a range You started climbing when you were 4, right? Do you have one coach since that time? Who’s your coach now?
I climbed for the first time with my dad when I was 4 but then I started going to a climbing gym 2 years later where I met my coach, Alessandro Marrocchi, who has been my trainer ever since.
Are your parents climbers too? Do you climb together?
My father used to climb but now he doesn’t climb anymore. My mother has never climbed but they enjoy coming with me during competitions or to the crag What is in your training plan except climbing itself? Yoga? Running? Stretching?
Beside climbing and specific training such as pan gullich, hang board… I do some weightlifting, a lot of stretching and sometimes some running.
What are your strong sides and weaknesses as a climber?
My strong sides are endurance and technique while I have to work on my power Your favorite climbing discipline is lead, right? How many times in a week do you train boulder? Speed?
During winter preparation I mostly train on boulder and speed. More or less two times per week in speed and three times in boulder.
Photo by Sara Grippo
Please tell us about Fiamme Oro sport section. What opportunities do you have as a member? Do you wear a police uniform from time to time?
Being a member of the Italian police gives me an important economic support and thanks to them I can dedicate myself only to training. Sometimes I have to wear the uniform, for example during officials awards ceremonies or during interviews in TV
Please tell us about your diet. What’s your favorite dish?
I don’t follow a specific program but for me, it is quite hard gaining muscle mass so especially during periods of intense training I have to be careful to eat proteins and eat enough in general. My favorite dish is pumpkin risotto. You tie your laces around your climbing shoes a very unusual way. What’s the reason? Why don’t you use climbing shoes with velcro fastener?
I prefer using laces because I have a very thin foot. I started tying them around the shoes because the laces are very long and day by day I got used to do it so and it became a sort of ritual.
Photo by Sytse Van Slooten / IFSC
The last book you have read?
“L’amica geniale” by Ellen ferrante
The last track you added to your playlist?
It is quite strange but I don’t listen to music very often so I don’t have a playlist
Rock climbing journey of your dream? Where do you want to climb?
Red river gorge.
The postponement of the Olympics – do you find some positive in this situation for you?
I have the opportunity to work on my weaknesses for another year. Even other athletes have this opportunity but I am younger so maybe I can improve more.
Text: Yury Birilov
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