SKALOLAZ.PRO team proudly presents the first interview of Kai Harada to Russian media. Wanna know how Kai is training, what is his favorite anime and who sets the boulder problems for him? Enjoy the story!
When did you start climbing?
10 years old.
Do you have any other climber in your family (your parents or someone else)?
No, I don't have anyone in my family who climbs.
How many times a week do you train?
5~6 times a week.
Japanese climbers are dominating in bouldering now. What’s the secret?
I don’t think we do anything differently in terms of the training but one thing I can say is that Japan has a large pool of climbers and it’s stiff competition.
What’s your favorite climbing discipline?
How often do you train speed and lead?
Speed ⇒ I do some practice on the speed wall before the competition.
Lead ⇒ I regularly do endurance training and I only practice on the Lead wall just before the competition.
In what gym do you train mostly? Are there only a boulder wall, or lead and speed walls too?
B-Pump Ogikubo. There are only bouldering walls.
With who do you train? Who are your training partners?
I usually train by myself.
Who sets boulder problems for you? Are you a routesetter?
Yes, I do it myself.
You have launched your own YouTube channel. What was the reason?
The reason behind is that I want more people to know the sport of climbing.
Who helps you to do the videos? How many people are in your YouTube team?
There’s a group of friends who help me and usually 3-5 people involved in every episode.
Do you watch any climbing videos on YouTube? If so, what channels? Adam Ondra? Magnus Mitbo? IFSC translations?
I only watch my video, but not the others. (to review my moves etc)
What can you say about Chibatore?
https://www.instagram.com/chibatore/ and his excersises
To be honest, it’s not my style and I don’t think too much of it.
There is not too many rocks in your Instragram. Do you like it? How often do you rock climb?
I do like outdoor rocks, however, due to the busy competition schedule, it doesn’t allow me to do outdoor climbing as much as I wish.
What kind of sports are in your training program except climbing itself? Running? Fitness? Stretching? Yoga?
I do pilates 2 times a week.
Are you a student? If so, what kind of education do you want to get?
I quit university last year in order for me to focus more on climbing.
Your favorite computer game?
Clash Royale, Apex.
Your favorite anime?
What is the Olympics for you? What changes in your life after you passed the qualification for the Olympics?
It’s just one passing point and I try not to think it’s any different from other competitions.
The last book you’ve read?
The Richest Man in Babylon
The last song you’ve added to your playlist?
ANDY GRAMMER [wish you pain].
When you hear “Russia” what do you think about?
Photo by SUGURU SAITO / RED BULL CONTENT PULL,
EDDIE FOWKE /IFSC