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INTERVIEW: CAMILLA MORONI

This Italian climber showed incredible climbing at the last World Championship in Moscow. She took not only the silver medal but our hearts. Now SKALOLAZ.PRO team proudly presents an exclusive interview with Camilla Moroni.


IFSC, Dimitris Tosidis


Please tell us a few words about the World Championship. Did you like the venue? Was the organization of the competition good enough?


Yes, I liked the venue, I really liked the light games on the wall and all the flags hanging from the roof. The organization was perfect!


What can you say about the routesetting in bouldering?


I think it was the competition with the best route setting of the year because all the boulders of the competition were great and they made a good ranking without equal merit.


The final – what was that? :) What did you feel and what did you think about in the final? Was it the best climbing in your life?


For me, it was unexpected to make finals, but once in finals I really wanted to be on the podium and I climbed hard for that. Yes, I think it was the best climbing of my life. I’ve never experienced these emotions before, from the screams to the tears of joy.


IFSC, Jan Virt


Did you visit any other places in Moscow during the World Championship? Maybe a climbing gym, a shop, a museum or the city center?


Yes, I went to Red Square but I had already visited it in 2018 during the Youth World Championship.


Your last Youth IFSC event was in 2019. Did anything change for you as an athlete since that time? Can you describe the difference between the Youth competitions and the World Cups?


A lot changed because now I’m a professional athlete and sport became my job. The youth competitions are very different from World Cups: when I was in the Youth Team the competitions were different because you were allowed to see the other competitors (there were no 5 minutes but 5 attempts); and the routesetting style was different, in WCs boulders are more physical than Youth competitions (with compressions or hard moves).


Your parents are climbers, right? Please tell us about your first steps in climbing.


I started going to the crags when I was a child because my parents are climbers, but I started climbing in the gyms and compete only at 13 and now my dad is my trainer.


Your dad is your coach, right? What are the positive and negative sides of such a situation?


Yes, he is. The positive sides are that he knows me very well and he can see me every day, I think it’s much better than having a long-distance trainer. I can’t find any negative sides!


ФСР


In what gym do you train? Do you like to train alone or with your teammates? With who do you train?


There aren’t cool gyms near my home, so I usually go to Turin or Milan to train (it takes 2 hours by car) or I go for some weeks to Arco (Trento) where there is our national climbing center. Obviously, I prefer training with my friends.


How often do you climb outdoors? What are your favorite crags? Your plans on the rocks in 2022? Rock trip of your dream?


I climb on rock whenever the comp calendar allows me to do it, I love both bouldering and sport climbing. My favorite bouldering areas are Switzerland (Magic Wood and Brione) and Fontainebleau and Siurana and Margalef for sport climbing. Currently, I’m in Brione and this winter I’m planning to go to Spain. My dream rock trip is Rocklands.


Please give advice for our readers: How to become a good climber? What is the most important thing?


Developing a good Technique since you are a child is very important because it’s way easier to learn it at this age, but also having a good trainer to improve strength and endurance.


Did you have a climbing idol when you were a child?


My idols were and still are Jakob Shubert for his attitude in competitions and Gabri Moroni for his technique.


The last book you’ve read, the last track in your playlist.


I don’t l really like books, the last I’ve read is the Brione climbing guidebook.

The last song in my playlist is Galvanize by The Chemical Brothers.



Text by Yury Birilov, SKALOLAZ.PRO. All rights reserved.

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